Brett happens

Finishing off the tail end of a bottle of this impressive pomace brandy, two friends and I brainstormed a collective tasting note. Their contributions are in quotes. This being a new product made in micro-quantities, there’s virtually no mention of it on the Web and no technical information that I’ve been able to find. Even Occhipinti’s website is silent on the subject.

Grappa di Frappato, Arianna Occhipinti ($73.50/500 ml, 12329401)
Distilled from the pomace of organically farmed Frappato grapes. 44% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Crazy complex nose: “Tequila-like” “agave” then fruitiness (dried cherry, “raspberry jam with lots of pectin,” “russet apple”) then spice (anise, caraway) then “old-fashioned black licorice.” After ten minutes in the glass, the fruit evanesces leaving “green” and spice with hints of “pineapple sake,” dried violet and mastic. Mouth-filling and flavourful on first sip. Clean and polished but with a welcome rustic bite. A “green herbal note” brings “oregano” and “bison grass vodka” to mind. There’s some background cherry too. It’s dry and fiery but not harsh – the alcohol’s warm, not burning – and the finish lasts for minutes. “What distinguishes this is that it evolves so much in the glass.” Also, as another imbiber pointed out, while eaux-de-vie like framboise and mirabelle are made from the whole fruit, this is made from the grape pulp, skins, seeds and stems left over from winemaking and yet, in contrast to many grappas, it manages to retain a definite fruitiness. Literally and figuratively breathtaking. (Buy again? “Yes.” “Yes.” Yes.)