Brett happens

Wildass Red 2011, VQA Niagara Penninsula, Stratus ($24.70, 11601143)
A self-styled “cheeky” proprietary blend of Cabernet Franc (31%), Merlot (28%), Cabernet Sauvignon (18%) and Syrah (11%) with a little Tannat, Petit Verdot, Tempranillo and Sangiovese thrown in for the hell of it. Aged in oak barrels (11% new) for 246 days. 14% ABV per the winery, 12.5% ABV per the LCBO and SAQ.
Exuberant, engaging nose of red fruit, pencil box (wood, graphite and eraser), spice, shoe leather. Medium bodied, fluid. The core of spicy, juicy fruit gains some slate and then milk chocolate. Zingy acidity runs throughout, as do the light but firm tannins. Dried herbs scent the savoury, mildly astringent finish.  Maybe a little less wowing than the 2008, but still (and as always) a pure, tart and refreshing wine, one of the most drinkable, food-friendly reds to come out of Ontario. It’s not surprising to learn that the winemaker hails from the Loire. To Quebec’s eternal shame, it’s 25% more expensive at the SAQ than at the LCBO.