Brett happens

Naoussa 2011, Jeunes Vignes de Xinomavro, Domaine Thymiopoulos ($17.50, 11607617)
An earlier version of this tasting note claimed (as I’d been told) that the wine was made using carbonic maceration. Turns out that’s wrong. Here’s the technical low-down, straight from the winemaker: “10 year old vines from Biodynamically-farmed Xynomavro (Trilofo and Fitia vineyards). Grapes are hand picked and brought to the winery in small cases. 80 % de-stemmed, 20% whole cluster pressed. Very gentle pressing. No pumping over to avoid extracting harsh tannins. Fermented with wild yeasts, maceration takes place for about one week…then aged in stainless steel tanks for about 9 months…bottled unfiltered.” 13.5% ABV.
Cherry, slate and spice. Light to medium-bodied. As smooth and flowing as ever, but this vintage also has a velvety astringency running throughout. The sweet-tart fruit is ripe and sun-drenched but light, not jammy. Darker, more minerally flavours, a faint green streak and a whiff of cherry cordial colour the tangy finish. Think Greek cru Beaujolais. Maybe the most accomplished of the 2009, 2010 and 2011 trio. A simple, joyful, food-friendly wine to buy multiple bottles – if not cases – of. But hurry: it’s already sold out at several outlets. (Buy again? Duh!)

[Edited on April 19, 2013]