Brett happens

Pardon the Debussy pun…

Dâo Reserva 2008, Catedral, Cavas Velhas ($13.45, 00739680)
Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo, 50%), Alfrocheiro (30%) and Touriga Nacional (20%). Fully destemmed. Macerated and fermented in temperature-controlled (28°C) tanks. Matured for six months in Allier oak barrels and two months in the bottle. 13% ABV. $11.15 in Ontario. Quebec agent: Mosaiq.
Red plum, blackberry, spice, cocoa, blood, slate and something fresh, green and sappy, like crushed berry leaves and stems. Medium-bodied. Smooth but textured by nipping acidity, fine tannins and a faint astrengency. The nose’s slate and sap come out on the fair finish. The ripe fuit is a little too laden with oak. Were it not, this would be better – a pure and juicy quaffer. As it is, not bad, though best served lightly chilled and with food than without. (Buy again? Meh, though people less allergic oak needn’t hesitate.)