Archive for the ‘Tasting notes’ Category
MWG tasting with Jean-Paul Daumen
Focused, well-spoken and charming Jean-Paul Daumen, the man in charge of the southern Rhône estate Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, was in town recently for a series of promotional events that included a tasting with the Mo’ Wine Group. And what a tasting it was: an overview of the estate’s red wines that featured a vertical of Châteauneuf-du-Papes the likes of which even Jean-Paul said he has rarely experienced. Many thanks to oenopole for making this happen.
Vieille Julienne was acquired by the Daumen family in 1905, who sold the grapes to négociants until 1960. After trying his hand at various vocations, including that of musician, Jean-Paul returned to the estate in 1990. Unaware of the budding organic and biodyanmic movements, he decided on his own to adopt a natural approach in the vineyard and a non-interventionist approach in the winery. The question “So, for you, a wine is made in the vineyard, not the cellar?” elicited a succinct “Absoluement.”
The estate comprises 10.5 ha of vines – 10 ha of black grapes and 0.5 ha of white – in the northern part of the Châteauneuf region. Most of the vines are old, upwards of 100 years in some cases. All the wines are made in essentially the same way: hand-picking and repeated sorting of grapes; partial destemming; temperature-controlled fermentation with indigenous yeasts; extended maceration; approximately 12 months’ aging in foudres and neutral barrels; no filtering or fining; sulphur added – and then minimally – only just before bottling.
Jean-Paul admits that the wines are, first and foremost, about fruit; that’s what nature and the terroir produce, he says. However, they are far from fruit bombs. Before the event, more than one MWG member expressed apprehension at the prospect of tasting through a baker’s dozen of big, heady wines. Would palates be obliterated as had happened only a week earlier? We needn’t have worried. While big, the wines weren’t bruising and their purity and balance ensured refreshment. They were also remarkably stylish and consistent across the vintages, as the following notes show.
Two La QV cuvées
La QV‘s new season of Wednesday evening apéros, with Cyril pouring glasses of a couple of private imports and Julie serving small dishes featuring local ingredients, is in full swing. This evening’s edition was built around Domaine Ribiera’s 2010 Causse Toujours, tasting better than ever, with a couple other wines of interest sharing the spotlight.
Bourgogne-Aligoté 2010, Domaine Sarnin-Berrux ($25.35, 12 bottles/case, La QV)
100% Aligoté, possibly organically farmed. 11% ABV if I remember correctly.
Nose of citronella, wax and a faint hint of ash. Crystalline lemon and acidity so keen the wine tingles. Very dry. Softens a little on the clean, limestoney finish. Another lip-smacker, just about perfect for a scorcher like today. Stocks are beginning to dwindle; if you want some, act fast.
Beaujolais Villages 2010, Roue libre, Domaine Grain de Sénevé ($24.75, 12 bottles/case, La QV)
Domaine Grain de Sénevé – whose name translates as the wild mustard seed estate – began converting to organic production in 2007; 2010 is its first certified organic vintage. This is the estate’s unsulphured cuvée. 100% organically farmed Gamay. Fermented with native yeasts. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.
Cloudy pale maroon. Savoury and surprising nose of candied raspberry, cinnamon, lily flower, quartz and a hint of fur. Light, fresh and juicy – though remarkably dry – on the palate. Structured more by its pure fruit and bright acidity than by tannins, which are virtually non-existent. Sarsaparilla and slate notes on the lingering finish. Lightly chilled, this tart and refreshing wine is about the only kind of red you’d want to drink with the humidex pushing 40ºC/104ºF.
Santorini in a glass
Blasted by the sun and wind, the spectacularly beautiful island of Santorini is a remnant of the caldera of a volcano whose catastrophic collapse 35 centuries ago may have brought down the Minoan civilization in distant Crete. The island may also be the Atlantis of legend. The volcanic soil is young and nearly devoid of organic matter. Water in the form of rain is virtually non-existent during the growing season. The wind strips leaves and desiccates everything in its path. As Hugh Johnson has said, this is Europe’s most punishing vineyard. How surprising then that it is also the source of one of Europe’s great white wines.
The traditional vine-growing method, still much in use today, is to train the vines into nests kept low to the ground, which affords a degree of protection from the wind and sun.
Santorini 2010, Assyrtiko, Estate Argyros ($21.15, 11639344)
100% Assyrtiko from 50- to 60-year-old vines. Fermented and aged on the lees in stainless steel.
Quartz dust and lemon with notes of dried herbs and green grape. Medium-bodied and very dry. A tight coil of minerals and tingling acidity rounded by a density of, well, fruit except the wine’s not fruity (matière, the French would say; perhaps “extract” is the best translation). Virtually endless preserved-lemon finish, the alcohol (13.2% ABV) providing lift, not heat. Clean, pure and penetrating. In short, a lip-smacking wine not to be missed, especially at the price. Food pairing? Grilled fish served with lemon wedges and a pitcher of olive oil. Or, one of the best matches ever (better even than Muscadet or Chablis), oysters on the half shell.
Delicious Dolcetto
Dolcetto d’Alba 2010, Bric del Salto, Sottimano ($18.70, 10856558)
100% Dolcetto. Fermented with native yeasts. Sees only stainless steel. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. 12.5% ABV according to the label (13% according to SAQ.com, perhaps referring to an earlier vintage).
Black cherry, plum, turned earth, mushroom. Medium-bodied with a soft texture and almost Burgundian weight. Fine, velvety tannins. Fluid yet juicy yet dry. Wonderfully pure and delicious fruit. Not much structural depth but considerable depth of flavour. A beguiling sourness and drying astringency mark the finish. A charmer.
Let my Bobal go!
Delighted with Calabuig’s authentic and refreshing Bobal (the closest I’ve come to a house red in a long time), I’ve had my eye on other wines made entirely or partly from this obscure grape variety. Mustiguillo’s blend is the most expensive Bobal-based wine I’ve seen. Does that mean it’s the best?
Vino de la tierra El Terrerazo 2009, Mestis, Bodega Mustiguillo ($19.05, 11412596)
50% Bobal, 30% Tempranillo and 20% Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Aged several months in French oak barrels. 14.5% ABV.
Cassis, plum and black cherry; hints of leather, slate, something green (leaves? bell pepper?) and, like a warning flag, chocolate. Oddly bipolar in the mouth. On one hand, there’s the sprightly native, the Bobal, with its juicy fruit and tart acidity yearning to be free. On the other, there’s the international straightjacket, a layer of cloying oak and a tannic structure that seems imposed, not integrated. Improves some as it breathes (so carafe it already), is better with food than on its own and shows a certain affinity for lamb (recipe after the jump). But this shotgun marriage is still a case of irreconcilable differences, as the milk chocolate and black pepper finish makes only too clear. Unfortunately, the label is the best thing about the wine.
MWG May 24th tasting: report (4/4)
Douro 2008, Batuta, Niepoort ($81.75, 10912071)
A blend of local grape varieties, predominantly Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional, mainly from 60+-year-old vines in the Quinta do Carril and vineyards from 100-year-old vines near Quinta de Nãpoles. Destemmed. Alcoholic fermentation took place in stainless steel vats and wood fermenters, the must being in contact with the skins for about 50 days. The wine was then pressed directly into French oak casks for 21 months’ malolactic fermentation and maturation. 14% ABV.
Complex, nuanced: spice, cedar, black fruit with hints of oak and maple. Full-bodied but no heaviness. Very structured with a formidable yet very fine tannic framework that gives the wine a velour-like texture. Pure and juicy fruit. Long, elegant finish. A flawless, impeccably balanced wine with great aging potential. (Buy again? If price were no object, yes.)
Douro 2008, Redoma, Niepoort ($44.75, 11634375)
A field blend involving Touriga Franco, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amareia and Tinto Cão, among others, from 60- to 120-year-old vines in the Cima Corgo region. Destemmed. Alcoholic fermentation was in stainless steel vats and stone lagares; malolactic fermentation and 20 month’s maturation in French oak casks. 14% ABV.
Initially gorgeous if closed nose of plum and spice, then gaining vanilla and chocolate notes. More straightforward, less deep and precise than the Batuta, the round tannins making for a more earthbound structure. The flavours are less layered, too. The dense fruit is buoyed by vibrant acidity. The oak is a little too present for now. Long, herby/menthol finish. Will benefit from a few years in the cellar. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Douro 2008, Vertente, Niepoort ($24.25, 10371665)
Another complex blend, this time comprising Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Tinta Amareia and Touriga Nacional, from 20-year-old vines in the Quinta de Nápoles vineyard and up to 70-year-old vines in the Pinhão Valley. Stainless steel tanks and lagares were used for alcoholic fermentation; 20% new French oak casks for malolactic fermentation and 18 months’ maturation. 13.5% ABV.
Fresh nose of cassis, turned earth, volatile herbs and subtle oak. At first appears closed yet complex and complete, with good structure, ripe fruit and a fluid texture. Becomes less well-integrated, less deep-seeming as it warms. The long, spicy finish shows a bit of heat. Closer than the other wines to a classic Douro. (Buy again? Yes, for serving uncarafed and at cool room temperature.)
The inclusion of the Redoma in the May 24th Cellier release prompted this mini-horizontal, which unfortunately couldn’t include the fourth Niepoort Douro regularly stocked at the SAQ, the virtually sold-out Dialogo ($15.80, 11605591). The three bottles we did taste shared many qualities: weight, savour, balance, impeccable craftsmanship and a relatively high price, about 20% above similar wines from competing producers.
MWG May 24th tasting: report (interlude)
MWG member wapiti generously shared with the group a Pork Futures smoked pork tongue. After considering various pairing options, we settled on the following bottle.
Grignolino d’Asti 2010, Cascina ’Tavijn ($20.05, oenopole but NLA)
100% Grignolino. Hazy pale red. Sour cherry nose with horsehair and mineral notes. A bit spritzy on opening. More minerally than fruity. More astringent than obviously tannic. Keen acidity. Lingering bitter cherry, cherry stems and grape pips. Hard to imagine a better match for the thinly sliced, lightly smoked tongue. (Buy again? Definitely.)
MWG May 24th tasting: report (2/4)
Chablis Premier cru Montmain 2009, Domaine de Bois d’Yver ($31.00, 11635108)
100% organically farmed Chardonnay from 30-year-old vines. Fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks using native yeasts. Undergoes full malolactic fermentation. Aged in stainless steel.
Discreet nose of lemon and quartz with hints of flowers, butter and oats. Pure and balanced on the palate, the flavours rainwatery/minerally and lightly fruity (lemon with a bit of pith). Bright acid is blunted by the winey texture, an artifact of this hot vintage. Long, faintly astringent finish. An elegant if, for now, reticent Chablis that will only benefit from another year or two’s aging. Am looking forward to tasting the estate’s wines from the less atypical 2010 vintage. (Buy again? Yes.)
Vouvray sec 2010, Vincent Carême ($24.40, 11633612)
100% organically farmed Chenin Blanc from vines averaging 45 years in age. Fermented in neutral oak barrels using native yeasts. Undergoes partial malolactic fermentation.
Tropical blossoms, red apple and mangosteen give way to honeycomb. On the palate, lemon, clover honey and noticeable residual sugar. Quite rich, though there’s also lots of acid to cut the fat. Very long. Became a bit cloying and honeycomb-dominated as it warmed. Needs time? (Buy again? Maybe.)
Chenin Blanc 2010, Reserve, Stellenbosch, De Morgenzon ($25.25, 11631895)
100% Chenin Blanc from 40-year-old vines. Throughout the growing season, Baroque music is piped into the vineyard around the clock <rolls eyes>. Fermented in French oak barrels using native yeasts. Aged on the lees for eight months before being racked, lightly filtered and bottled.
Closed nose of minerals gaining floral, spice and eventually ash and wax notes. Rich and honeyed on the palate, with lots of minerals and eventually lemon. Dry on the attack though a hint of residual sugar – and oak – emerge on the mid-palate. The strong acidity is somewhat masked by the rich fruit. Good length. One of the better South African Chenins I’ve encountered. (Buy again? Probably not, given the superiority of more affordable Loire Chenins.)
Semillon 2011, Luján de Cuyo, Mendel ($21.70, 11634818)
100% Sémillon from 70-year-old vines. Fermented and aged in French oak barrels.
Smells dry somehow: little fruit but some flowers, quartz and a hint of very ripe cheese. Weighty but not very fruity in the mouth. Lots of minerals, though. Bitterness kicks in on the mid-palate along with some honey and a coconut husk note. Long, dry, puckery finish. Not a wine to love but civilized, balanced and true to the variety all the same. (Buy again? Only if in the market for a Sémillon.)
MWG May 24th tasting: report (1/4)
The first of four sets of notes from a tasting based on the May 24th Cellier release.
Vinho Verde 2010, Muros Antigos, Anselmo Mendes ($20.25, 11612555)
100% Alvarinho grapes treaded with the stems, then vertical-pressed and macerated for 48 hours. Fermented and matured for four months in stainless steel. Unlike Mendes’s Muros de Melgaço cuvée, this sees no oak.
Light lemon morphing into honeydew melon with a hint of sawdust and a vaguely floral note. Broader than your usual Vinho Verde, the winey texture softening the high acidity. Favours tend to lemon and quartz. Very dry with a pithy, puckery finish. Really delicious. An excellent pairing for grilled seafood (think squid), this also worked well with the Spanish-inspired salmon recipe you’ll find after the jump. (Buy again? Yep.)
Alsace Riesling 2010, Réserve Personnelle, Domaine Weinbach ($29.05, 11639053)
100% biodynamically farmed Riesling from young vines in the Clos des Capucins vineyard.
Effusive nose of potpourri, chalk, faint lemon/lime. Medium weight yet fluid. Intense flavours (lemon, minerals) and tingly acidity. Fruity and a little sweet on the attack, dry and a little sour on the finish. Fine enough though, like so many Weinbach wines, sweeter than I like and pricey compared with, say, Schueller or Frick. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Brett happens 
MWG May 24th tasting: report (3/4)
with one comment
BenMarco 2009, Mendoza, Dominio del Plata ($18.75, 11602701)
Made by Susana Balbo as “a tribute to the ‘traditional’ Argentinian wine style.” 90% Caberbet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Destemmed before pressing. Temperature-controlled fermentation with pumping over, racking and returning and 20 days’ extended maceration. Matured 11 months, 50% in new French oak barrels and 50% in second-use American oak barrels. 14.5% ABV.
Cherry Blossom (the candy, not the flower) but fresh with mint and cassis. The one-dimensional, oversweet fruit is almost obliterated by char. Look for ’em and you’ll find some sweet oak and ink. Fairly high acid and quite tannic. Predictable finish. Would probably benefit from a grilled steak, not that I intend to find out. (Buy again? No.)
Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Maipe Reserve, Luján de Cuyo, Bodega Chakana ($18.85, 11602883)
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines averaging 38 years old. Temperature-controlled fermentation. Aged 12 months in French oak barrels. 14% ABV.
Cassis, smoked sausage and menthol eventually gaining some green bell pepper. Fruity, minerally, oaky but flat: flat flavours, flat acid, flat tannins. Long finish – too long. (Buy again? No.)
LFE 900 2008, Valle de Colchagua, Luis Felipe Edwards ($30.75, 11617874)
36% Petite Sirah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Syrah, 7% Carmenère and 3% Malbec from a single vineyard located at 900 metres altitude. Temperature-controlled fermentation followed by ten days’ maceration. Aged 18 months in new French oak barrels. 14.5% ABV.
Not particularly appealing nose: alcohol, leather, slate, ink, cassis and, eventually, Keds. Ripe, rich and mouth-filling but not a bomb. Sweet but not candied fruit, round verging on gummy tannins, peek-a-boo acidity, oak-spicy finish. (Buy again? If I had to choose one of the four, it’d be this, but no.)
Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Elegance, Valle del Maipo, Haras de Pirque ($36.00, 11602891)
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Syrah and 3% Cabernet Franc. The grapes were lightly crushed and cold-macerated for seven days before being fermented using indigenous yeasts with pumping over and racking and returning. Aged 16 months in French oak barrels. 14.8% ABV.
Off-putting nose with everything except fruit dialed to maximum: “paving crew” quipped one taster, “llama tail” another. Dense and exaggerated but, in its perverse way, balanced, the overripe fruit holding its own against the monster tannins and trowel-laid oak. Unrelenting finish. Tamed somewhat as it breathed and quite possibly in need of a few years in the cellar. Still, it’s hard to imagine this ever providing refreshment. And if there’s a more incongruously named wine in the world, I’ve not encountered it. (Buy again? Never.)
The high hopes I had for this flight were dashed. Obviously the wines are made in a style that I – and nearly all the tasters in attendance – don’t appreciate. But does that mean they’re bad wines? In their defence, one of the tasters, a confessed New World fan who also views white wines with suspicion, was in seventh heaven, drained all his glasses and was delighted that he got to take home the tail ends. Also, let it be noted that the wine press is far more positive about the bottles; Haras flaunts 90-point ratings from Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast and various guides. (Let it also be noted that most of the wine press goes on junkets paid for by the producers’ associations in these countries.) And, dog knows, the wines sell. Yet, each time I smelled or tasted the Haras, I shuddered; most of the tasters around the table dumped their glasses after a sip or two; and one taster claimed the flight so obliterated his palate that he was unable to taste anything afterwards. Even the wines’ defenders would, I think, have to admit to their lack of refreshment. And for those of us who hold that a wine’s first duty is to be food-friendly and refreshing, that indeed makes them bad.
Written by carswell
May 30, 2012 at 10:58
Posted in Commentary, Tasting notes
Tagged with Argentina, Cellier, Chile, Mo' Wine Group