Brett happens

Quick takes on seven whites tasted at the recent (mostly) under-$30 Bordeaux event. As a group, less numerous and less interesting (i.e. more commercial) than the reds I tasted, notes on which will follow.

Bordeaux 2008, Sauvignon, Château Reynon ($22.85, 11170486)
Pungent nose dominated by Sauvignon Blanc (Sémillon forms only 15% of the blend): boxwood, grapefruit zest, quartz. Smooth entry, fruity mid-palate, zesty finish. Not deep but fresh and racy. Your classic white Bordeaux.

Entre-Deux-Mers 2009, Château Bonnet ($16.70, 83709)
50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Sémillon, 10% Muscadelle. Clean Sauvignon Blanc nose. Fruity but dry. Good acid. Fast-fade finish. Not particularly polished.

Pessac-Léognan 2007, Château Cruzeau ($23.50, 225201)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Spent ten months in 35% new oak barrels. White grapefruit, minerals and ash. Fresh and balanced, chalky more than fruity, good length. Tasty.

Pessac-Léognan 2007. Château de Rochemorin ($24.95, 743013)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Spent ten months in 35% new oak barrels. Elegant nose: lime and limestone. Minerally attack, fruity mid-palate, sourish finish. Clean and pure. Appetizing.

Premières Côtes de Blaye 2008, Château Bertinerie ($15.30, 00707190)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. White citrus, gooseberry. Lighter than others. Good acid and length. Sourish finish. Simple, restrained but with a certain elegance.

Premières Côtes de Blaye 2007, Château Haut Bertinerie ($24.95, 11095130)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Spent several months in new oak barrels. A tracery of minerals butressed by fruit. Oak is very sotto voce. Good acid and length. Clean, balanced, elegant.

Sauternes 2006, Château Partarrieu ($43.50, Francs-Vins)
Crème brûlée and orange water nose. Smooth, creamy attack. Fluid, not overly sweet. Complex set of flavours ranging from subtle apricot to pronounced botrytis. Light but persistent finish. Very pleasant.