Brett happens

Yet more notes – the last – from the under-$30 Bordeaux event. Arranged in order of increasing price. It wasn’t always clear whether the quoted private import prices were for restaurants or individuals, so check with the agency concerned before submitting your order.

Côtes de Castillon 2006, Cuvée Prestige, Château Vieux Monpezat ($16.90, 10844813)
Cassis, cigar box, hint of vanilla: classic. Smooth but grippy, with clean fruit, good balance and a long finish. Great QPR.

Puisseguin Saint-Émilion 2007, Château des Laurets ($18.25, 371401)
Merlot with about 20% Cabernet Franc. Estate acquired by Château Clarke owner Benjamin de Rothschild in 2003 and advised by Michel Rolland (microbullage !). Red fruit, spice and oak on the nose. Supple entry, pure fruit, subtle oak. Lingering mild astringency. Could use more focus and depth.

Premières Côtes de Blaye 2004, Château La Raz Caman ($18.60, 888578)
Around 2/3 Merlot and 1/4 Cabernet Sauvignon with the balance made up by Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Classic red Bordeaux nose: spicy plum, oak, tobacco. Clean and fruity attack. Supple tannins and bright acid structure the mid-palate. Shortish finish. Correct.

Lalande de Pomerol 2004, Château La Croix des Moines ($24.25, 973057)
Merlot with about 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Spent 14 months in barrels, 25% new. Sweet and sour cassis with toast and menthol notes. Plump fruit and tight tannins. Good length. Seems closed but promising.

Côtes de Francs 2005, Château Le Puy ($24.45, 709469)
Merlot with a little Cabernet Sauvignon and maybe a dash of Carmenère. Biodynamic and, going by the clarity, unfiltered and unfined. Engaging nose despite the hint of barnyard: cassis, herbs, candied plum, red meat. Smooth, medium bodied, lacy tannins. Savoury herbs and sweet fruit, turning a little tart on the long finish. Distinctive, authentic and delicious: a real winner.

Lalande de Pomerol 2007, Le Pavillon de Saint-Jacques ($27.39, 6 bottles/case, Plan Vin)
80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fresh and appealing nose: cassis, raspberries, green leaves and flowers. Round and smooth on the surface but with underlying tannins. Sweet berry fruit. Good length. Another winner.

Canon-Fronsac 2006, Candelaire, Château Lamarche-Canon ($32.75, 00912204)
90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Spent 16 months in oak barrels, 35% new. Toasty plum, black raspberry and spice. Rich and pure with tight, dense tannins and an oaky overlay. Long and well proportioned if a little monolithic for now: could use a couple of years in the cellar.