Brett happens

While it would be going too far to claim that Provençal wines get no respect, it is true that they’re often overlooked. Part of the problem is that, until recently and with a few exceptions like Bandol, they were often overlookable. Tighter regulation as former VDQS regions have been granted AOC status, the planting of better grapes and the arrival of more serious winemakers have turned the situation around. Today, Provence is the source of many enjoyable and affordable wines of every colour, wines that more often than not taste of their place.

Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2006, Domaine Les Béates ($22.75, 11358260)
Organically farmed Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Reared in stainless steel and one-year oak vats.
Lovely, brooding nose: red fruit, garrigue, earth. Smooth and fluid on the palate, the fruit pure and ripe. Quite structured by fine tannins though not particularly deep. Good acidity and length, with a hint of vanilla on the finish. Comes across as a little austere but in an appealing, even elegant way. No apparent alcohol and medium-bodied, despite the 14%.

Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2008, Château Revelette ($18.30, 10259737)
Organically farmed 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Vinified and reared in concrete vats.
Baked earth, dried herbes de Provence, dark fruit, sawed wood, hint of alcohol. Silky on entry, turning velvety as the tannins make their presence felt. Pure fruit, sweet at first but gaining sourer notes and darker undertones. Long finish shows some astringency along with lingering black cherry flavours.

Both wines went with an estouffade provençale (beef stewed in red wine with aromatic vegetables, thyme and bay and finished with grated orange zest) as to the manner born.