Brett happens

The SAQ has just received a second shipment of the 2009 Côtes du Rhône-Villages Signargues, Domaine La Montagnette ($16.15, 11095949), which is bottled by the small Vignerons d’Estézargues cooperative. Cooperatives have an often deserved reputation for churning out unremarkable wines, but this is one of the exceptions. Practices in the vineyard are semi-organic – lutte raisonnée, as the French say – with chemicals being used only as a last resort. Practices in the cellar are even more natural: native yeasts; no acidification or chaptalization; reds are fermented at low temperature and given long maceration; sulphur is avoided until just before bottling, when a small amount is added to stabilize the wines.

Like most Côtes du Rhônes, it’s a blend: 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% each Mourvèdre and Carignan. Fermented and matured in stainless steel. Unfiltered, so less than perfectly limpid. An earthy if supple mouthful of dark fruit (think black cherry, black raspberry, plum) and spice, structured by bright acidity and light, tarry/slatey tannins. Exceedingly dry. Finishes on a peppery, kirschy note, with a lingering rhubarb-like astringency. A little heftier (thanks to the vintage and the 14.5% ABV) and thus less charming than the 2008 and $1 more expensive than last fall’s initial shipment. Still, if the SAQ sells a better red – let alone one with such an attractive label – at this price point, I’d love to know about it.

The fall shipment sold out fast. This will too. And if you need an excuse to seize the day, you’ve got one: this Saturday and Sunday, when you buy $100 or more worth of products at the monopoly, you’ll get a gift card worth 15% of the total.