Brett happens

Besides being the French word for blackcurrant, Cassis is a fishing port on the Mediterranean coast between Marseille and Bandol and an appellation d’origine contrôlée, three quarters of whose production is white. Most of the wine is consumed locally and little is exported.

Cassis 2010, Clos d’Albizzi ($18.10, 11095797)
Marsanne 30%, Clairette 40%, Ugni Blanc 30%. Vineyard practices include mechanical weed control and avoidance of synthetic insecticides and pesticides. The grapes are manually harvested and fermented with native yeasts. Undergoes malo. 12.5% abv.

Peach giving way to almond, acacia blossom and a hint of anise. Texture bordering on unctuous, kept fresh by the ephemeral fruitiness and brisk acidity. Initial quince and honey segue to minerals and a lingering sour bitterness. Ends on a briny note.

Intriguing and, in its way, delicious but a food wine more than an apertif wine. Worked well enough with a garlic- and anchovy-scented sauté of rapinni and scallops. Would be a natural for Provençal seafood dishes including, of course, bouillabaisse.