Brett happens

…because white wines from the AOC are called Pacherenc du Vic-Bihl. What’s more, if they don’t have sec appended to the AOC name, they are moelleux or liquoreux.

Pacherenc du Vic-Bihl 2009, Château Aydie ($18.70/500 ml, 00857193)

100% Petit Manseng. The partially dehydrated grapes were manually harvested in December. Spent 12 months in oak and acacia barrels.

If apricot were a citrus fruit, it would taste like this: honeyed apricot on the attack, quickly followed by burnt sugar flavours and a lemon-like acidity. Yellow apples and minerals on the finish. Rich texture. Not sugary: sweeter than off-dry – though not by much – and seemingly less sweet as it progresses through the mouth, an impression strengthened by the high acid and the sour-bitter/medicinal note that creeps in on the finish. The estate’s suggested food pairings are right on target: smoked fish, fish in sauce, blue cheeses, foie gras or minimally sweetened fruit-based desserts.