Brett happens

…to bring you the following public service announcement.

The dry Tokajis available at the SAQ come in two styles: fresh and bright if somewhat internationalized (see Château Pajzos) or substantial and savoury, wines to contend with (see Oremus). This new arrival falls squarely in the second group. At things stand now, there’s not much in the system; if you’re interested, don’t dawdle.

Tokaj-Hegyalja 2008, Furmint, Löcse, Béres Vineyards and Winery ($23.05, 11607490)
100% Furmint from 30-year-old vines in the Löcse vineyard. Fermented using native yeasts. Aged eight months in 30% new Hungarian oak casks. Did not undergo malolactic fermentation. Filtered before bottling.

Pale gold with a faint green cast. Subtle, complex, elusive nose: peach, ash, fern fronds, quartz. Plump and sweet-seeming at first though actually quite acidic and dry. Fruit fades to a honeyed, minerally finish with an intriguing sourness, a faint but persistent bitter almond note and a WTF?! warming/burning sensation like you get after eating a fiery goulash or chewing a peppercorn. Unique, formidable and pretty fantastic.

Paired nicely with a chicken roasted with cumin and Seville oranges. Can also see it working with pork, veal and white fish.