Brett happens

New vintages of two wines that knocked the MWG’s collective socks off last year have shown up on the SAQ’s shelves.

The 2008 Etna “Rosso di Verzella” from Azienda Vinicola Benanti ($22.00, 11348459) is far from what most people would consider a typical Sicilian red: the texture and weight are too Burgundian, the fruit isn’t overripe or jammy. While perhaps a tad less beguiling than last year’s 2006 (or maybe it’s the 2008’s relative youth), the same description applies: “A blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio given about ten months in small casks. Wafting nose of dried black cherry, baked earth, rosemary. Round, smooth and savoury. Medium-bodied. Lively acid gives freshness. Round tannins provide structure. Soft, long finish. A charmer.”

On the other hand, the 2009 Montsant “Dido” from Venus la Universal ($24.10, 11376994) seemed less approachable and more serious than the 2008. Sleek, dark, brooding and barely budging in the hour or so it was open, this is a wine that will benefit from a few years in a cellar or, failing that (and to go by the 2008), several hours – even 24 – in a carafe.

Both wines are widely available, though few outlets received more than a case or two. In other words, get ’em while the getting’s good.