Brett happens

Minervois 2010, La Nine, Domaine Jean Baptiste Sénat ($20.90, 11659960)
Organically farmed Grenache (40%), Carignan (30%), Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Syrah (10%each) from vines 60, 100, 25, 50 and 10 years old respectively. Partially detstemmed, then vatted and fermented for 12 days using native yeasts. Aged ten months in old oak barrels and stainless steel vats. Unfiltered, unfined and minimally sulphured. 14% ABV.
Heady nose of roasted plums, sun-baked stones, garrigue and pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied and quite dry. Velvet-textured yet fluid with supple tannins and astoundingly pure, ripe fruit. Turns savoury on the finish, leaving a peristant tingle (whether from tannins, acidity or alcohol I can’t tell) and faint aftertaste of raspberry liqueur. Some of Sénat’s other wines, notably Le Bois des Merveilles, are overambitious – too big, heavy and unrefreshing – but this vibrant quaffer is a charmer and a close to perfect pairing for herb-rubbed and grilled beef, lamb or pork.