Brett happens

One last note before returning to the PEC wines. This never lasts long on the SAQ’s shelves and has almost disappeared from Montreal stores. Carpe diem.

Vinho Verde 2010, Alvarinho, Deu La Deu, Adega Cooperativa Regional de Monçâo ($19.40, 00927996)
The cooperative’s flagship wine. 100% Alvarinho. Two pressings. Allowed to settle 24 hours. Fermented at 18-20ºC (64-68ºF). Racked and filtered before maturation. Cold-stabilized. Passed through earth and membrane filters before bottling. 13% ABV. The name refers to Deu-la-Deu (“God gave her”) Martins, the wife of  the mayor of Monção, who, in 1368 during a long Castilian siege, used the last of the city’s flour to bake loaves of bread which she tauntingly threw at the invaders, fooling them into believing that the starving townsfolk had provisions aplenty and that the siege was futile.
Yellow plum and peach, green pineapple in the background and a hint of coriander seed. The sweet-ripe fruit and texture verging on oily would mean heaviness were it not for the crisp acidity, crunchy minerals and surge of grapefruit-pith bitterness that persists through the long, dry finish. In addition to length, there’s considerable breadth and some depth. A bit less remarkable than the dazzling 2009 but easily the best Vinho Verde and best Alvarinho/Albariño I’ve tasted in the interim. Enjoyable as an aperitif, it also proved a natural match for grilled squid. Fish, shellfish and even white meats in southern European preparations will also work.

Now, can we get the monopoly to bring in the co-op’s red Vinho Verde?