Brett happens

Chardonnay 2010, Unoaked, VQA Prince Edward County, Rosehall Run ($20)
A blend of Chardonnay (65%) and Chardonnay Musqué (35%). Fermented with the light lees in tanks at 10-12ºC. Aged on the lees for about 8 months. Malolactic fermentation kept to a minimum. 12.7% ABV.
Oddly floral but fresh nose with lemon, minerals and a hint of wax. Light textured and dry. Faint fruit (apple, pear, lemon), lots of minerals and a hint of bitterness. Crisp acidity and good length. Clean and refreshing. (Buy again? Sure.)

Chardonnay 2010, County, VQA Prince Edward County, Norman Hardie ($35)
Fermented in temp-controlled stainless steel tanks with gentle stirring of lees. Aged in French oak barrels from various coopers and with various levels of toast. 12.2% ABV.
Muted nose: lemon, apple, minerals and a hint of camphor. Richer than the Rosehall but not heavy. Attractive from the get-go with a minerally attack. Tropical fruit and oak emerge on the mid-palate, then segue into an ashy, lemon-pith finish. (Buy again? The wine has appeal but the QPR is whacky when you can get an excellent premier cru Chabis for less.)

Chardonnay 2009, Unoaked, VQA Prince Edward County, Casa-Dea Estates Winery ($16)
Fermented in stainless steel tanks. Five months’ aging on the lees. 12.9% ABV.
Canned Niblets corn, gaining some tropical fruit. Very dry. Rich, bordering on flabby texture. Little acid backbone and not much follow-through. (Buy again? No.)

Chardonnay 2010, The Blessed, VQA Prince Edward County, Exultet Estates ($35)
No technical info to be found other than a mention that the grapes are “ultra-ripe” and a reference to new oak barrels. Chances are good that it undergoes malolactic fermentation too. 13% ABV.
The nose? “Aunt Jemima’s butt – a happy, fun thing,” to quote one taster. Tropical fruit, butter, ashy oak, vanilla and a hint of caramel. Winey texture. Less than bone dry, though the sweetness and extract are balanced by firm acidity. Good length. In terms of New World style, goes right up to – but not over – the edge. (Buy again? Not my cup of tea – and that’s setting aside the in-your-face religiosity.)