Brett happens

This has just hit the shelves and will probably fly off them. It made a fine pairing for a bavette aux échalotes (recipe after the jump).

Morgon 2011, Marcel Lapierre ($27.95, 11305344)
100% organically farmed Gamay. In contrast to the standard “Nature” bottling, which comes in through the private import channel, this SAQ bottling is lightly filtered and sulphured to enhance its stability (and, unfortunately, strip it of some charm). 12.5% ABV.
A little reductive at first. Red berries, sweet spice, a floral note (rose? peony?) and, with coaxing, earth and minerals. Light, bright and supple on the palate. The beguiling sweet-and-sour fruit is darkened by some vine sap and a dissipating lactic note. Lacy albeit tight tannins swell then fade on the tangy, slatey finish. Elegance and purity it has in spades but not, for now, a lot of depth. Of course, this isn’t the Nature. And the wine is just off the boat. And the estate is very consistent. And 2011 is an outstanding vintage in Beaujolais. And the wine did gain weight as it breathed.

Is it worth $28? The answer’s not as obvious as it was for the 2009 and 2010 but I’m inclined to give Lapierre the benefit of the doubt, especially this weekend when the price is $25.15.

If you’re one of the lucky few who can score some of the Nature bottles, don’t buy this in preference. If not and you decide to give it a shot, carafe it an hour or two beforehand or cellar it for at least a few months and up to five years.

♦

Bavette aux échalotes

For each serving, salt and pepper a small bavette (sirloin flap steak) and peel and chop a medium shallot.

Place a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s almost at the smoking point, add a knob of butter. As soon as the butter foam subsides, slip in the steak. Cook for 1 or 2 minutes per side, depending on its size and the desired degree of doneness. Transfer to a warm plate. Season with salt and pepper.

Sauté the shallot in the same skillet. When it turns translucent, deglaze with a generous slug of dry white wine or white vermouth, scraping the bottom of the skillet to free any brown bits. Turn the heat to high and reduce the wine to a few syrupy spoonfuls. Spoon over the steak and serve immediately.