Brett happens

(We’ll ignore the wag who says “Well, duh, it’s the world’s only drinkable Xinomavro.”)

Naoussa 2010, Jeunes Vignes de Xinomavro, Domaine Thymiopoulos ($17.05, 11607617)
100% organically farmed Xinomavro from five- to ten-year-old vines. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. Bottled unfiltered. 13.5% ABV.
Cherry pie and Swiss chard tart on a slate countertop: that’s the nose. In the mouth, the wine is medium-bodied and supple. The fruit (pomegranate and cherry) is sweet and pure, juicy but not heavy, both brightened and soured by acidity. The tannins are light but pervasive and of the teeth-coating kind. Turns drier, earthier, more savoury and minerally as it heads into the finish.

A joy to drink, a vin plaisir, a quaffer, ideally suited for sweet-spiced Greek fare like tonight’s vegetarian pastitsio (with lentils replacing the traditional ground meat).

There seems to be more around than there was of the 2009. Still, some outlets have nearly sold out and the track record suggests the rest will soon.