Brett happens

The staff at the Laurier SAQ outlet were swooning over this wine. It made a great pairing for salmon with leeks and cream (recipe after the jump).

Chablis premier cru 2010, Montmain, Domaine de Bois d’Yver ($29.95, 11635108)
100% Chardonnay from 30-year-old vines; the estate is converting to organic farming. Pneumatically pressed, fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats with native yeasts. Undergoes malolactic fermentation. 13% ABV.
Classic – and therefore irresistable – Chablis nose: intense lemon and green apple over chalk and straw with the faintest hint of smoky gun flint. Eventually gained floral (hawthorne?) and honey notes. Clean, delineated and tense with acidity. Minerals dominate and what fruit there is is lemony. The finish is bitter-tinged with a little butter creeping in. Broadened and deepened as it warmed and breathed: pull it from the fridge and pop the cork if crystals and acid are your thing; carafe a couple of hours and serve at something closer to 12ºC (53ºF) if in search of fruit and richness.

♦

Salmon with Leeks and Cream

Inspired by a Joël Robuchon dish.

For two servings, you’ll need two 175 g pieces of salmon fillet. Have the fishmonger remove the scales but leave the skin on. Using a very sharp knife, cut through the skin but not into the flesh in a 2.5 cm (1-inch) crosshatch pattern. Season both sides with salt and white pepper and set aside.

Trim the root end and dark green tops from 3 medium leeks. Cut them in half lengthwise and rinse well. Slice crosswise into 1 cm (1/4-inch) wide strips. Peel and mince 1 shallot. Using scissors, cut 5 or 6 chives into short lengths.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a small saucepan. Add the shallot and cook until softened but not brown. Add 60 ml (4 tablespoons) dry white wine and 60 ml (4 tablespoons) vin jaune vinegar (substitute white wine vinegar) and a pinch of salt, increase the heat to medium high and reduce by 3/4. Add 80 ml (1/3 cup) heavy cream, reduce the heat to medium and reduce by 1/2. Keep warm.

In a skillet over medium heat, melt 1/2 tablespoon butter and 1/2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper and sauté until soft and beginning to brown on the edges, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat 1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a non-stick skillet large enough to hold all the salmon over medium-high heat. Place the salmon skin side down in the oil and fry until the skin turns crisp and brown, about 3 minutes. Using a spatula, turn the salmon and cook another 30 seconds. Remove the skillet from the heat but leave the salmon in it.

Meanwhile, reheat the cream sauce. Taste it and adjust the seasoning. If you find it sharp or lacking richness, remove the saucepan from the heat and swirl in 1 or 2 tablespoons butter cut into small pieces.

To serve, spoon the leeks into the centre of 2 warmed plates. Position the salmon, skin side up, on the leeks. Spoon the cream sauce around the leeks. Scatter the chives over the plates and serve.