Brett happens

Rosso di Montalcino 2010, Argiano ($22.60, 10252869)
100% Sangiovese. Manually harvested. Fermented on the skins in stainless steel vats for two to three weeks. After malolactic fermentation, transferred to second vintage French oak barrels and Slovenian oak botti for maturation. Botttled the following fall. 14.0% ABV per the SAQ, 14.5% per the label.

Dusty cherry and terracotta with hints of baled hay, sage/bay, cinnamon, alcohol. Medium bodied. Silky on the attack. The foreground is occupied by fine but very firm tannins and bright acidity, the background by fruit that’s more kirschy than fresh. Not much depth, not much to chew on. Initially so dry that arid might be a better descriptor, so astringent that I wanted to go brush my teeth, it sweetened and softened a little as it breathed. Fair finish with some tobacco joining the cherry and alcohol.

Definitely a food wine but not now or probably ever a very beguiling one. Next time I’ll look a little further north to Chianti for my Sangiovese hit.