Brett happens

Sierra Morena, Dorado, Bodegas Gomez Nevado ($24.75, La QV, 6 bottles/case)
A fortified blend of organically farmed Arién, Palomino and Pedro Ximénez. Spends time under a yeast veil (flor) and seven years in American oak casks, where it oxidizes. The main differences between this and a sherry are the presence of Arién grapes and that it is made in the Sierra Morena mountains, about 30 km northwest of Cordoba, and not near the sea. 17% ABV.
Sherry-like nose (more Amontillado than Fino): nutty, orange peel, dried fruits. Quite dry though smooth, rich and surprisingly fresh, with none of the austerity that can make dry sherries a challenge for some palates. The near endless finish has you thinking about hazelnuts, dried apricot and golden raisins but not, in contrast to a dry sherry, brine. Remarkably pure and vibrant, this made a huge impression on the group. Can see it working with Spanish cheeses, including blues, savoury foie gras preparations, braised poultry and even barely sweetened dry cakes. (Buy again? Imperatively.)