Brett happens

Côtes de Provence 2010, Domaine du Clos de la Procure ($23.20, 10783109)
Organic. Mostly old-vine Grenache and Mourvèdre with some Cinsault, Carignan and Syrah according to the estate’s website (SAQ.com says 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 20% Carignan and 20% Syrah). Manually harvested. Destemmed then crushed by foot. Fermented in 1,000-litre stainless steel tanks with no added yeasts, acid or enzymes and no pumping over. Daily punch-downs for 12 to 21 days. Pressed in a manual vertical press before blending. Matured in third-vintage oak barrels for 12 to 18 months, depending on the vintage. 13.5% ABV according to the label; 14.5% according to SAQ.com.
Dusty cherry and plum, notes of dry pine forest floor, sandalwood, kirsch. In the mouth, the fruit takes a back seat to briny minerals, fine tannins and a light but a pervasive astringency, though it eventually gains presence and a sour edge. A lactic undercurrent like a suggestion of yogurt nears the surface on the peppery finish. Medium-bodied, smooth-textured, dry and if a little alcoholic, more warming than hot. A food wine best carafed for an hour or two and served lightly chilled. Given the austerity, I’m not sure it’d come out on top in a head-to-head with, say, the Revelette or Béates, but it’s representative of the appellation and made a satisfying match for a Provençal beef stew marinated and cooked in red wine, finished with sautéed mushrooms and perfumed with orange.