An OK wine but a middling Pinot
Pinot Noir 2010, Marlborough, Yealands Estate ($20.00, 11640521)
100% sustainably farmed Pinot Noir. The estate is also carbonZero-certifed. Contrary to the SAQ’s claim, the grapes are from the Awatere Valley in Marlbourough, not Central Otago. Cold-macerated for about a week, then warmed and inoculated with selected yeasts and fermented fast and hot with regular manual punch-downs. After pressing, the wine was transferred to French oak barrels (30% new). Fined with egg whites before blending and bottling. 13% ABV according to the label; 14% ABV according to SAQ.com.
A little cherry on the nose along with some spice, charred aromas and a whiff of alcohol: it doesn’t pinote. Medium-bodied, the texture a bit glyceriny. Not exuberantly fruity, though the fruit is more apparent than on the nose. There’s a strong undercurrent of acidity and some light tannins. The finish is an odd combination of heat, vanilla and milk chocolate with a bitter streak that outlasts them all. The wine sweetened and gained a licorice note after 30 minutes, the bitterness turning more peppery, the components integrating into a more harmonious whole, so carafe and chill slightly before serving. You’ll then find yourself in the presence of an OK wine but a middling Pinot.
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