Brett happens

Bourgogne 2009, Les Champlains, Domaine Simon Bize & Fils ($28.15, 11815643)
100% Chardonnay from vines planted between 1993 and 1996. The grapes are pressed on arrival in the vatting cellar. The resulting juice is pumped into vats, chilled, allowed to settle and then racked, with the fine lees, into fermenting vats, where alcoholic fermentation starts spontaneously and lasts four to six weeks at a temperature between 20 and 24ºC. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation and initial maturation take place in a mix of vats and barrels (around 15% new) for a few months. The wine is then transferred to stainless steel vats for additional maturation, if necessary. Blended, fined (with egg whites) and lightly filtered before bottling. 13% ABV.
Lemon, green apple, oatmeal, chalk and light charry oak. Strikingly acidic, like a good Chablis but with a richer texture. Ripe if discreet fruit, a minerally underlay and a faint ashy note give way to a citrusy, faintly bitter finish. Clean and bracing, impeccably made and enjoyable now, though the oak will be less obvious after a year in the cellar.