Brett happens

IGT Maremma Toscana 2011, Carandelle, Podere San Cristoforo ($25.85, 11546922)
100% biodynamically farmed Sangiovese from the eight-year-old Carandelle vineyard. Spontaneous fermentation and maceration for seven days in stainless steel tanks followed by ten months’ maturation in old French oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered. 13% ABV.
Pleasing nose of cherry, terracotta, dried herbs and oak with hints of spice and pepper. Medium bodied, fluid, smooth. The juicy fruit is held in check by bright acidity and shaped by silky tannins that dry a little on the finish, where they’re joined by a typically Italian bitter note. A dapper wine that’s ready to go. Those in the market for a Sangiovese with a sunny disposition need look no further; others may find the aloof austerity of some similarly priced Chiantis has even more appeal.