Brett happens

Rosso del Contadino 9, Azienda agricola Frank Cornelissen ($30.66, Glou, 12 bottles/case)
A blend of Etna-grown grapes, red and white, from the 2011 vintage: Nerello Mascalese (70%); Allicante, Minella Nera, Uva Francese and Nerello Capuccio (25%) and Inzolia (5%). The vines average 55 years old. Farming and production methods are rigorously natural. 15% ABV.
Complex nose: hibiscus, spice (especially clove), lava dust, eventually rose and “fried salmon skin.” Tangy pomegranate in the mouth, the fruit borne by light, firm tannins and lit from within by glowing acidity. Rocky minerals and a cedary/resinous note scent the drying, faintly alcoholic finish. Double-carafed about an hour before serving, this kept improving in the glass. Bolder than the Contadino 8. Would love to taste them side by side. (Buy again? Yes.)