Brett happens

All wine, most of the time

MWG April 18th tasting (1/9): Two Galician whites

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Valdeorras 2011, Gaba do Xil, Godello, Telmo Rodriguez ($17.25, 11896113)
100% Godello. A blend of estate-grown and purchased grapes grown on steep-sloped, terraced vineyards. Manually harvested. Fermented with selected yeasts in stainless steel tanks. Matured on the lees. 13.5% ABV. Part of the April 18th Cellier New Arrivals release.
Lemon, minerals and a whiff of dried herbs. The soft, even fleshy attack with hints of pear segues into a citric mid-palate with a strong acidic backbone and a savory streak that persists through the long, quartzy finish. Dry, clean and fresh. Would make a good apéritif or a pairing for shellfish grilled or a la plancha. (Buy again? Sure.)

Ribeiro 2011, Viña Mein ($21.20, 11903686)
About 70% Treixadura with other local varieties (Godello, Loureiro, Albariño, Torrontés*, Lado, etc.) making up the balance. Fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees. 12.5% ABV.
White fruit, grapefruit and quartz. Richer and denser, to the point that it seems less crisp than the Gaba do Xil, though I suspect the acidity levels are actually about the same. The flavours echo the nose with some lemon thrown in. Gains an attractive sour and bitter edge on the finish. Simply prepared fish and shellfish seem indicated here. (Buy again? Sure.)

*The native Galician grape, which “produces wines of little body and good acidity, with considerable personality and an intense bouquet [and] can be found throughout Galicia and in Córdoba” (winesofspain.com). Argentina’s Torrontés is a different grape altogether, now thought essentially to be a cross between the Muscat of Alexandria and Mission varieties.

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Written by carswell

April 20, 2013 at 10:14

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