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We interrupt our regularly scheduled programming…

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…to bring you the following public service announcement.

The Cour-Cheverny appellation, a small enclave in the heart of the Cheverny zone, was created in 1993 to protect the once common but then-endangered Romorantin grape variety, a relative of Chardonnay thought to have arrived in the Loire valley in the 16th century. All Cour-Cheverny wine is white and contains only Romorantin. While most is made dry, a few semi-sweet, late-harvest and even botrytized versions can be found. The SAQ used to carry Domaine des Huards‘s reliable entry-level Cour-Cheverny but dropped it from the catalogue several years ago. Since then, as far as I know, the monopoly has been a CC-free zone, forcing Romorantin lovers to turn to agencies like Glou and Vini-vins. Until last week, that is, when this showed up on SAQ shelves.

Cour-Cheverny 2011, Vieilles vignes, Benoit Daridan ($23.25, 11953325)
100% Romorantin from 50-year-old vines. Directly pressed. Clarification by settling. Cold-temperautre fermentation in vats with stirring every 15 days. Matured in tanks (80%) and barrels (20%). Filtered before bottling.13.5% ABV.
Not what you’d call a fruity nose. There’s some lemon, a hint of dried hay, a whiff of kerosene, and chalk, lots of chalk. Intense on the attack. Dry, extracted (the texture is slightly viscous, like some Vermintinos) with coursing acidity and a piquant, almost fiery sour streak. Flavours? Lemon, including pith; a dab of butter; minerals galore, especially on the finish. Lingers long – is that a spiced apple aftertaste? – but seems to hollow out a little as it goes along. With a bit more follow-through, this would be a wow; as it stands, it’s a perfectly enjoyable Cour-Cheverny. The winemaker recommends serving it with spicy fare, which I just don’t see, but I can confirm that it makes a dandy aperitif and goes well with crustaceans and cheese, especially goat cheese. Quantities are limited and it’s selling out fast. (Buy again? Yes.)

Written by carswell

April 22, 2013 at 09:50

Posted in Tasting notes

Tagged with ,

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