Brett happens

…to bring you the following public service announcement.

The Cour-Cheverny appellation, a small enclave in the heart of the Cheverny zone, was created in 1993 to protect the once common but then-endangered Romorantin grape variety, a relative of Chardonnay thought to have arrived in the Loire valley in the 16th century. All Cour-Cheverny wine is white and contains only Romorantin. While most is made dry, a few semi-sweet, late-harvest and even botrytized versions can be found. The SAQ used to carry Domaine des Huards‘s reliable entry-level Cour-Cheverny but dropped it from the catalogue several years ago. Since then, as far as I know, the monopoly has been a CC-free zone, forcing Romorantin lovers to turn to agencies like Glou and Vini-vins. Until last week, that is, when this showed up on SAQ shelves.

Cour-Cheverny 2011, Vieilles vignes, Benoit Daridan ($23.25, 11953325)
100% Romorantin from 50-year-old vines. Directly pressed. Clarification by settling. Cold-temperautre fermentation in vats with stirring every 15 days. Matured in tanks (80%) and barrels (20%). Filtered before bottling.13.5% ABV.
Not what you’d call a fruity nose. There’s some lemon, a hint of dried hay, a whiff of kerosene, and chalk, lots of chalk. Intense on the attack. Dry, extracted (the texture is slightly viscous, like some Vermintinos) with coursing acidity and a piquant, almost fiery sour streak. Flavours? Lemon, including pith; a dab of butter; minerals galore, especially on the finish. Lingers long – is that a spiced apple aftertaste? – but seems to hollow out a little as it goes along. With a bit more follow-through, this would be a wow; as it stands, it’s a perfectly enjoyable Cour-Cheverny. The winemaker recommends serving it with spicy fare, which I just don’t see, but I can confirm that it makes a dandy aperitif and goes well with crustaceans and cheese, especially goat cheese. Quantities are limited and it’s selling out fast. (Buy again? Yes.)