Brett happens

Cheverny 2011, Le Pressoir, Michel Gendrier ($19.85,  11154021)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Pinot Noir (80%) and Gamay (20%). The grapes are transferred to the vats without pumping. Alcoholic fermentation – with native yeasts – takes place at temperatures up to 30ºC and lasts about a week. The wine is then gently pressed, racked, allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation, oxygenated and racked again in December with bottling taking place in April or May. The only non-grape product added is small amounts of sulphur dioxide. 12.5% ABV.
Perfumy nose. Flavours tending to red cherry, earth, minerals and a touch of stemmy greenness. Barely medium-bodied. The fruit is clean and tart, the tannins slender, the finish tangy. Pleasant enough but a little short on depth and breadth, especially compared with the memorable 2006. (Buy again? Maybe.)

Cheverny 2010, Domaine Maison Père & Fils ($17.50, 11463801)
Pinot Noir (60%), Gamay (30%) and Malbec/Côt (10%). The grapes are sorted and destemmed. Fermented with native yeasts at 25-28ºC. Matured in tanks for 10 months. 12% ABV.
Odd but not unappealing nose of black currant, guava, baking spice and a little blood. Smooth and light, with silky tannins. The fruit tastes riper and sweeter than the Pressoir’s. Simple and well made but not a wine for thinking about. (Buy again? Maybe.)