Brett happens

Anjou 2010, Mozaïk, Pithon-Paillé ($23.30, 11906457)
100% organically farmed, non-estate Cabernet Franc from 30- to 40-year-old vines. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. Matured ten months in second- to sixth-vintage oak barrels. No chaptalization and minimal sulphur dioxide. 13.4% ABV.
Classic Cab Franc nose: red fruit and mulberry, turned earth, slate, a hint of green tobacco leaf. I got a whiff of barnyard too. Medium-bodied but dense with juicy tart fruit. Dimension is provided by light, tight tannins, lively acidity and a minerally undertow. The sustained finish ties everything up nicely. Not a keeper – a wine for drinking now and in the next couple of years – but if you’re in the mood to get your Cab Franc on, this’ll certainly do the trick. (Buy again? Yes.)