Brett happens

Sideritis 2012, Les Dons de Dionysos, Parparoussis  ($18.95, 11900995)
100% Sideritis (which is a grape variety as well as an herb) from purchased grapes grown near Patras in the Achaea region of the northern Peloponnese. Fermented and matured in stainless steel. 12.5% ABV.
Subdued but unusual nose: lemon/grapefruit, yellow apple, dried honey, camomile, quartzy sand and tree sap. Light-bodied and lightly fruity – think lemon and pear – but dry. The smooth surface doesn’t quite gloss over the coursing acidity. A surprising vein of barley sugar (the flavour, not the sweetness) runs throughout and surfaces on the saline finish, giving a salted caramel spin to the aftertaste. A sensation of heat – not from alcohol, more like you get from fresh chile or black pepper – lingers long. Fascinating. An excellent aperitif and a natural with mezze. Not a keeper, though; the next day, the wine was still tasty but had lost a lot of its individuality. (Buy again? Yes.)