Brett happens

Palette 2012, Château Simone ($55.00, 11657489)
The SAQ lists the varieites as Grenache (50%), Mourvèdre (30%) and Cinsault (20%). The château’s website says Grenache (45%), Mourvèdre (30%), Cinsault (5%) and “secondary varieties” (20%) including Syrah, Castets, Manosquin, Carignan and assorted Muscats, though it’s not clear whether they’re talking about the vines in the vineyard or the grapes in the blend (I suspect the latter). Manually harvested and sorted in the field and again in the winery. Lightly crushed and partially destemmed. Pressed using a vertical hydraulic press. The press juice is blended with some saignée juice, usually in a 2:1 ratio. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. Matured on the fine lees in small oak barrels. 13.5% ABV.
Deep orange-pink bordering on red. Slow to open but eventually offering a prismatic array of aromas: dusty herbs, spice chest, raspberry, cherry, yellow stone fruit, mandarin orange, flowers, hints of earth and smoke. Round and winey yet buoyant, fruity yet dry. Savouried by garrigue, minerals, threads of powdered ginger, saffron and licorice. Primary at first but revealing layer after layer as it breathes. Possessed of every dimension, in particular volume, not to mention balance and finesse. A favourite of nearly everyone around the table, this was the only bottle drained of the 14 in the tasting. As it was still developing after two hours in the glass, it will surely benefit from a year or two in the cellar. That said, the cork is as long and sound as a first growth Bordeaux’s, lending credence to claims that the wine is capable of aging a decade or longer. The very definition of a vin gastronomique and able to stand comparison with the finest reds and whites in the same price range. The world’s best still rosé? (Buy again? Yes (gulp).)

If you’re thinking about taking the plunge, the SAQ is offering 10% off all rosés, beers and coolers this Saturday and Sunday, June 29 and 30.