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Meursault 2011, Domaine François Mikulski ($53.00, 11436070)
100% Chardonnay, organically farmed though not certified as such. The grapes come from several estate-owned parcels in various climats and are fully destemmed, gently pressed, clarified by settling and separately fermented and matured before blending. Fermentation is with indigenous yeasts and lasts about two weeks. Racked into French oak barrels (<15% new) for malolactic fermentation and 10 to 12 months’ maturation. Fined before bottling. 12.8% ABV.
Attractive if monolithic nose: lemon, flint, faint cut hay. Taut, acidic and limestoney in the mouth, full of citrus and green apple. Some salinity and a white pepper note mark the long, clean finish. Concentrated more than rich (not a hint of butter), this starts and ends strong but is oddly uneventful in between. I’ve nothing but respect for Mikulski’s wines, so I’m guessing it’s in a closed-down phase. If that’s due to travel shock, a couple of months should be enough time for the wine to find its footing, though it probably won’t peak for another four or five years. (Buy again? Maybe.)

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Written by carswell

July 8, 2013 at 18:58

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