Brett happens

Cuvée de la Luna 2009, California, Valley of the Moon ($25.60, 11306136)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (86%), Merlot (8%), Malbec (5%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) from vineyards in Sonoma Valley, Sonoma Mountain and Dry Creek Valley. Fermented in stainless steel. Matured 24 months in French, American and Hungarian oak barrels. 14% ABV.
Plum and cherry but no cassis, a light overlay of smoky oak, hints of dark spices. Sun-ripe but dry. Plush textured. Verging on full-bodied. There’s enough acidity and tannic structure to keep things focused and dark minerals to avoid monotonality. A surprising umami note joins the excpected oak on a decent finish. An admirable restraint is showing here – this isn’t a fruit bomb – and the winemaking is textbook. Unfortunately, textbooks don’t teach you how to add soul. (Buy again? If in the mood for a $25 industrially produced New World Cabernet Sauvignon, maybe.)