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MWG October 3rd tasting (4/7): Béru v. Sarnin-Berrux

with 2 comments

Chablis 2009, Clos Béru Monopole, Château de Béru ($56.00, La QV, 6 bottles/case)
In 2009, the estate was organic converting to biodynamic. 100% Chardonnay from vines averaging 30 years old. Immediately after harvesting, the grapes are gently pressed. The must is transferred into stainless steel tanks and then into second- to fourth-fill oak barrels for 18 months’ fermentation and maturation. Unfiltered and unfined. Sulphur use is minimal. 12.5% ABV.
Evolving nose: butter, chalk, yellow apple, faint flint and spice. In the mouth, the wine is rich and round verging on plump. Fruit and acidity are in balance, minerals are present but in a supporting role. Layered and long. Ends on a hard-to-pin-down floral note (acacia?). Approachable now but with definite aging potential. A wine you could serve to Burg hounds as well as fans of New World Chards; if I owned a restaurant, this would be on the list. (Buy again? If feeling flush, yes.)

Saint-Aubin 2011, Domaine Sarnin-Berrux ($45.50, La QV, 6 bottles/case)
With the exception of one cuvée, the Sarnin-Berrux wines are made from purchased grapes. The firm works closely with the growers, insisting on organic methods and often picking the grapes themselves, and the wine-making schedule is based on the lunar calendar. The grapes for this 100% Chardonnay are manually harvested, placed in small cases and immediately transferred to the winery, where they are sorted and gently pressed. The must is allowed to settle and then to spontaneously ferment for four to six months. Matured on its lees in oak barrels. No sulphur is added until bottling, and then only minimally. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. Vegan-compatible. 13.5% ABV.
Smelling quite young: lactic, citrusy and a little oaky. Less dense than the Chablis but tenser, fruitier and somehow sweeter. Lemon and pear dance with with minerals and acidity before being subsumed in a dry/sour surge on the finish. Give it a year or two in the cellar. (Buy again? Sure.)

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Written by carswell

October 12, 2013 at 13:51

2 Responses

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  1. Not sure who you are but found your site through twitter. Anyhow your note on Clos Beru is spot on – couldn’t agree more. In fact I do own a restaurant / wine bar (www.theremedylondon.com) and we do have it on our list for all the same reasons!

    The Remedy (@TheRemedyLondon)

    January 26, 2014 at 17:03

    • Am just a Montreal-based drinker who’s increasingly obsessed with unadulterated wines with a sense of place. Glad to hear you concur on the Clos Béru. This is the first time I’ve heard of The Remedy but I like the looks of the place, the food and the wine list. Will make a point of dropping by if I’m ever in the neighbourhood. Cheers!

      carswell

      January 27, 2014 at 14:28


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