Brett happens

Langhe 2012, Anas-Cëtta, Elvio Cogno ($24.15, 12034591)
100% Nascetta (Anas-Cëtta is an archaic form of the name) from the Novello commune. Langhe’s only native white grape variety, Nascetta was nearly lost after the phylloxera plague (for the back story, see Christy Canterbury’s post “What in the world is Nascetta?“). Recently revived, Nascetta has been eligible for the Langhe DOC designation only since 2010 and, even today, a mere handful of estates make a version. First produced in 1994 on a limited-run basis, Elvio Cogno’s take on the grape is fermented in stainless steel tanks (70%) and oak barrels (30%). Matured six months in stainless steel and another six months in French barriques. Total time on the lees: 180 days. Aged three months in bottle before release. 13.5% ABV.
Subtle, complex nose: apple, white apricot, dried hay, dried lemon peel and a faint medicinal ping. Viscous mouthfeel, like in some Vermintinos – rich in extract but not fruit. Very dry and quite broad, with soft but sufficient acidity. A bitter thread runs throughout. The long finish is redolent of dried herbs and ends on a salt and white pepper note. Food-friendly: handled a broccoli risotto and a salad of mackerel and lightly pickled beets with aplomb. Said to be a good ager (up to a decade). More than a curiosity, this is a very fine wine. (Buy again? Yep.)