Brett happens

The remaining sets of Somewhereness 2013 notes will be posted soon. In the meantime, a heads-up on a newly arrived first-timer at the SAQ. There’s not much around and the monopoly is quickly blowing through its stock, so if you’re interested, act soon.

IGT Sicilia 2009, Maldafrica, Azienda Agricola COS ($29.40, 12098228)
Biodynamically farmed Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (45%) and Frappato (10%) from vines averaging 16 years old. Fermented at 30ºC in glass-lined concrete tanks with punch-downs and pump-overs. Matured 12 months in tanks and at least six months in the bottle. 13% ABV. Reportedly, only 600 cases are made each year.
Gorgeous, nuanced nose: black currant, dried oregano, sandalwood, hints of red meat, tar and earth. Medium-bodied with a supple, fluid texture, yet also substantial and intense. Vibrant acidity sets the juicy fruit aglow and lightly sours the bitter-edged finish. Fine-grained tannins structure the mid-palate and add terminal grit. Despite the fruit’s inherent sweetness, a savoury wine. Fresh and delicious – if young – now. What will happen in five or ten years? (Buy again? For sure.)

The most un-Bordeaux-like Bordeaux blend I’ve ever encountered? In any case, the kind of pure and racy warm-climate red that should have New World winemakers seriously questioning their modus operandi (looking at you, Napa). Will have to inquire about the origin of the name.