Brett happens

Yet another wine that the MWG bought multiple cases of when it was a private import has shown up at the SAQ.

Soave Colli Scaligeri 2011, Castelcerino, Cantina Filippi ($18.85, 12129119)
A subzone of the Soave DOC, the Colli Scaligeri (Scaligeri hills) is considered something of a grand cru, though oddly enough, it is located just outside the Soave Classico zone. The organically farmed grapes for this 100% Garganega come from vines averaging 45 years old. Manually harvested. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. Does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Matured on the fine lees for about six months, with occasional stirring, and an additional year in the bottle. Lightly filtered. Sees only stainless steel until bottling. 12.5% ABV.
Wafting nose of pear, camomile, white spice, limestone and powdered honey. Lush texture. Dry yet so extract-rich you don’t really notice. The fruit is present but subdued: Asian pear on a bed of hay and straw. A saline undercurrent adds a savoury tang. The cuvée’s signature minerals are there but rounder, less crystalline, more chalk than the quartz of earlier vintages. The acidity is rounder too, surely a function of the hot summer. A bitter note – grapefruit pith and almond skin – emerges on the long finish. A richer, weightier, slightly less mineral- and acid-driven example of this wine but one that delivers enormous pleasure. Astounding QPR. (Buy again? Oh, yes.)

(The post’s title is a play on the title of a sublime trio from Mozart’s Così fan tutte, which I mention only because it gives me an excuse to link to this video of a masterful performance.)