Modern but not too
Fearing this would be a heavily oaked, ultra-ripe, internationalized abomination, I decided not to include it in the tasting that came on the heels of its arrival at the SAQ. Then a friend brought a bottle to a dinner we shared at a BYOB…
Aglianico del Vulture 2010, Titolo, Elena Fucci ($36.25, 12134014)
100% Aglianico from vines ranging from 50 to 70 years old. The only treatments used during farming are manure, and copper and sulphur, though the estate is not certified organic. The grapes were manually harvested, destemmed, crushed in small batches and then fermented with selected yeasts in temperature-controlled (22–24°C) stainless steel tanks for ten days. The wine was transferred to 100% new French oak barrels for 12 months for malolactic fermentation and maturation, then bottled and matured another 12 months before release. 14% ABV.
Dark fruit with cherry overtones, spice, graphite and a whiff of smoke. Structured and dry, even a bit dusty, straddling the line between medium- and full-bodied. The tannins are firm but not harsh, the fruit is ripe but not heavy, the oak is seamlessly integrated and all are sustained through the long finish. Sleek and modern though not to extent of sacrificing its sense of place or the austerity that is the variety’s hallmark, this was a pleasant surprise. (Buy again? Yes.)
Brett happens 
Loved it too. Was at Atwater SAQ to buy a couple to age. Had them in my hands.
That’s when I saw two bottles of Barbaresco Muncagota 2008 from Produttori del Barbaresco. The last two bottles in the whole province. Guess who made it to my cellar.
Antoine
April 25, 2014 at 15:57
The Muncagota’s a great find, Antoine. Lucky you. Let me know if you need any help liquidating them… 😉
By the way, have learned that the new vintage of Camerlengo’s affordable Aglianico del Vulture “Antelio” will arrive at the SAQ soon. The eponymous flagship cuvée should be available through the private import channel this fall.
carswell
April 25, 2014 at 16:13