Brett happens

Côtes de Provence 2009, Cuvée Clarendon, Domaine Gavoty ($24.75, 10783918)
The estate is best known for its rosés and increasingly its whites. Clarendon is its flagship line and the red is made only in good vintages. A blend of Syrah (60%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%). Macerated and fermented in temperature-controlled tanks (28°C) for 20 days. Matured in tanks for 30 months. 14% ABV.
Closed on opening, this blossomed after being carafed several hours. Appealing nose that combines sweet (red and black fruit, spice) and savoury (clay, garrigue, game, tapenade) in equal measure. A velvety middleweight in the mouth. Well but not rigidly structured, with round, resolving tannins and fresh acidity. The ripe fruit is tethered by minerals and earth, while olives, herbs and spice perfume the long finish. Very drinkable now yet structured and balanced enough to be ageable too. Suave but not flashy, a self-assured wine that gets everything right and sees no need to flaunt it. (Buy again? Yep.)