Brett happens

Rheinhessen 2012, Grüner Sylvaner, Trocken, Battenfeld-Spanier ($26.60, private import, 6 bottles/case)
The 28-hectare estate is located in Hohen-Sülzen near Worms and has been organic since 1993, began working biodynamically in 2005 and is now a member of La Renaissance des appellations. This 100% Grüner Sylvaner (aka Silvaner and Sylvaner) is fermented with indigenous yeasts and sees only stainless steel until bottling. Screwcapped. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV/Insolite.
Flinty minerals, lime zest, apple, grass, hints of smoke and ash. Clean and dry (especially on the finish), tense with acidity. The fruit is shot through with minerals and gains an appealing sour note and hazelnut-skin bitterness. Long. In contrast to some Sylvaners, there’s nothing rustic about this wonderfully tonic wine. (Buy again? Yes.)