Brett happens

VDP de L’Hérault 2012, L’In, Mas Conscience ($29.50, private import, 6 bottles/case)
The cuvée’s name, L’In, is a play on the estate’s name; it stands for l’inconscience (craziness, madness), a reference to the folly of making dry white wines in the hot Languedoc. This, the estate’s only white, is a blend of organically and biodynamically farmed Grenache Blanc (50%), Rolle (24%), Roussanne (24%) and Viognier (2%). The grapes are harvested by hand, typically in late August to ensure a degree of freshness. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. Allowed to undergo malolatic fermentation. Filtered before bottling. Use of sulphur is minimized. Around 500 cases are produced. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV/Insolite.
Honeyed white fruit and white flowers, chalk and fresh hay. Weighty and dry, even a bit alkaline, but still quite fresh. As much about minerals as fruit. Long finish. Less complete and transporting than some top Languedoc-Roussillon whites (Clos du Rouge Gorge and Mas de Daumas Gassac, for example) though, in its defence, they cost considerably more. Probably best thought of as a food wine. Would go well with dishes like scallops with asparagus, orange and thyme, sea bass baked in a salt crust, and rabbit and preserved lemon tagine. (Buy again? Sure.)