Brett happens

Mâcon–Uchizy 2012, Cuvée La Martine, Bret Brothers ($28.75, 11491677)
Owners of the La Soufrandière estate since 2000, Jean-Guillaume and Jean-Philippe Bret also make wines using grapes purchased from a handful of trusted growers in southernmost Burgundy. The latter are sold under the Bret Brothers négociant label. The grapes for this 100% Chardonnay come from a single parcel of vines more than 50 years old located just outside the village of Uchizy. Manually harvested and whole cluster-pressed. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. Vinified and matured for 11 months in 228-litre oak barrels. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Trialto.
Textbook Chardonnay nose: oats, chalk, lemon and a hint of tropical fruit. Medium-bodied and mouth-filling. The tense balance between fruity extract and racy acidity really holds your attention. Some ripe fruit sweetness notwithstanding, dry and minerally, especially on the bitter-edged finish. Clean, pure, intense, layered, even complex – what’s not to like? Cellar for a year or two or carafe for an hour or two. (Buy again? Sure.)