Brett happens

Gigondas 2010, Pierre Henri Morel ($33.00, 11996157)
Grenache (60%), Syrah (30%) and Mourvèdre (10%). Fermented in concrete vats for three to four weeks, with daily pump-overs. Matured for 12 to 18 months, mostly in concrete vats but partly in 600-litre barrels. 14.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Clos des vignes.
A nose more closed and subdued than the Signargues‘s, the blackberry and sour cherry wrapped in leather, garrigue and old oak. Bigger, sterner and more structured too, with grippier if fine tannins. The fruit is pure, focused and held in check by savoury and mineral flavours and sleek acidity, while the spice-scented finish lasts long. This has leg of lamb written all over it. Carafe an hour before serving at cool room temperature. In contrast to some overachiever Gigondases, not a blockbuster and all the better for it. (Buy again? Sure.)