Brett happens

Etna 2010, Rosso di Verzella, Benanti ($23.75, 11348459)
Around 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio from 40-year-old vines grown on the northern slope of Mount Etna at an altitude of 700 m (2,300 feet). (An SAQ wine advisor told me the 2010 was, exceptionally, 100% Nerello Mascalese but I’ve found nothing to support that claim.) The grapes are picked by hand in mid-October, destemmed, pressed and macerated 20 to 25 days in stainless steel tanks. After malolactic fermentation, the wine is matured in 225-litre barrels for eight to ten months. 13.5% ABV. Quebec agent: L’Enoteca di Moreno de Marche.
Dried black cherry, red currant, brick dust, dried herbs. Medium-bodied and satin-textured. The lithe fruit is on an equal footing with volcanic minerality; the acidity is illuminating if nipping; the supple tannins show some astringency on the long, savoury finish with its cedar and spice overtones and lingering maraschino. So dry and so drinkable. Pair with red meats, especially ones cooked more than rare, game birds or rabbit stew. (Buy again? Yes.)