Brett happens

Vino de la tierra de Mallorca 2012, 12 Volts, 4 Kilos vinícola ($29.25, 11852479)
A blend of Callet–Fogoneu (50%), Syrah (30%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Merlot (10%) from vineyards in various parts of Majorca. Manually harvested. Macerated and fermented in stainless steel vats – initially at 20°C and rising to 28°C – for 20 days. After malolactic fermentation ended, the wine was transferred to a mix of 3,000-litre foudres (40%) and 225-litre French oak barrels (30% second fill and 30% third fill). 44,000 bottles made. 14% ABV. Quebec agent: Entreprise UVAS.
Beguiling, multifaceted if subdued nose: blackberry, herbes de Provence, sweet spice, dark minerals, sawed wood, leather, kirsch. Smooth and elegant in the mouth. Heady but more medium- than full-bodied. Transitions from sweet-ripe fruity on entry to dry, minerally, old-woody and intriguingly tart on exit, so more savoury than fruit-driven. The silky tannins turn a little astringent on the sustained finish. Not deep but far from superficial, it delivers a lot of deliciousness for $30. (Buy again? Yep.)

The estate’s name refers to the two owners’ start-up stake in the winery (4 million pesetas), the smallness of the sum being explained by the fact that wines were originally made in a low-overhead garage. The wine’s striking label is the work of Gary Baseman.