Brett happens

We wended our way to the Groupe Rézin stand, where Steve Beauséjour was, as ever, an enthusiastic host. Despite its being a root day – not a fruit day – on the biodynamic calendar, the wines were showing well, he said. And indeed they were.

Grüner Veltliner 2012, Rosensteig, Kremstal, Weingut Geyerhof ($28.85, private import, 12 bottles/case)
Currently comprising 19 hectares of vines, 70% of them Grüner Veltliner, the estate has been in the Maier family’s hands since the 16th century and certified organic since 1988. This 100% Grüner Veltliner comes from vineyards in Hollenberg, located on the south side of the Danube, east of Krems. The grapes are manually harvested in early October and whole-cluster pressed. After clarification by settling, the must is fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured on the lees for several months and filtered and bottled in mid-March. Sees only stainless steel until bottling. 12.5% ABV. Screwcapped. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Textbook GV nose: lime, green melon, white minerals, whiffs of grass, mint and white pepper. Nimble, fleet and fluid in the mouth yet also very present. Clean and tangy fruit, crystalline minerals and crisp acidity dance across the palate and fade into a saline, peppery finish. So easy to down. A summer sipper par excellence, this would also go famously with salads, vegetable dishes and mildly spiced, not-sweet, white-proteined Asian food. (Buy again? A bit pricey for an everyday wine – a recurring theme at this show – but yes.)