Brett happens

PGI Pangeon 2013, Assyrtiko/Sauvignon, Ktima Biblia Chora ($22.85, 11901138)
The winery and its 118 acres of vineyards sit on the southern slopes of Mount Pangeon, near Kavala, in eastern Macedonia. This is a 60-40 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Assyrtiko. Manually harvested. Cold-soaked for 12 hours, then pressed and fermented at low temperatures in stianless steel tanks. 13% ABV per SAQ.com, 14.5% per the label (I believe the label). 220,000 bottles made. Quebec agent: Cava Spiliadis (Le Maître de Chai).
Expressive nose in which the characteristic aromas of the component varieties intertwine, the Sauvignon contributing grass, grapefruit, cat pee and limestone, the Assyrtiko peach, lemon, honey, pumice and a hint of sea spray. Intense and vibrant in the mouth – fruity but dry, extracted but a middleweight. Any fat is instantly shredded by sabre-like acidity and buried by rocky minerals. On first sip you wonder whether the wine could use more depth and length; on subsequent sips, you don’t give it a second thought. The alcohol flares a little on the bitter-edged finish, especially as the wine warms, so best drunk nicely chilled. International in style? Yes but convincingly so. Easily the best vintage of this wine I’ve tasted. What to drink it with? Olives and mezze, simply prepared seafood, goat cheese. (Buy again? Sure.)