Brett happens

Macon–Lugny 2011, Les Crays vers Vaux, Vieilles vignes, Domaine Rijckaert ($34.67, private import, 6 bottles/case)
The estate avoids the use of herbicides and insecticides and limits its use of synthetic chemicals to treatments against mildew and odium. 100% Chardonnay. Manually harvested. Fermented in oak barrels with indigenous yeasts. Matured ten months on the lees with occasional stirring in a mix of oak barrels: 5% new, 10% first- to fourth-fill and 85% fifth- or sixth-fill. No additions, subtractions or untoward manipulation (micro-oxygenation, chilling, heating, etc.) during vinification. Lightly sulphured at bottling. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV/Insolite.
Closed but nuanced and appealing nose of yellow apple, citron, chalk and flint with hints of oatmeal, wood and ash. Medium- to full-bodied and satin-textured. Dry. The oak is discreet, the fruit faintly tropical, the minerals stony. The sustained acidity is softened and rounded by the wine’s considerable extract. A salted butter note colours the long, delicious finish. Lots of class. A beautiful white Burgundy that punches above its weight. (Buy again? Def.)

(Flight: 5/9)