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Gossamer yet tonic

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Moselle Luxembourgeoise 2012, Premier Grand Cru, Côtes de Grevenmacher, Riesling, Caves Bernard-Massard ($20.50, 10790229)
100% Riesling from estate and/or purchased grapes grown on the west bank of the Moselle, where the river forms the border between Luxembourg and Germany. Manually harvested. Pressed with a pneumatic press. Temperature-controlled fermentation in 60-hl stainless steel tanks. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Univins.
Smells like Riesling: green apple, lemon, minerals vacillating between chalk and quartz. No petrol though. Light- to medium-bodied. Fruity but, in contradiction to the demi-sec designation on the SAQ’s shelf label, dry, with just enough residual sugar to tone down the high-pitched acidity. The background minerals outlast the fruit on the clean finish. A gossamer wine with little depth and a fleeting presence – like those stars you can see only when looking at them indirectly – yet somehow tonic. Closer in spirit to an Alsatian than to a German MSR, though with a foot in each camp and more insubstantial than either. I like but wish there were a little more to it. (Buy again? Maybe.)

Written by carswell

December 5, 2014 at 10:56

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